This town has an extraordinary atmosphere. You can bump into venerable bankers, distinguished ladies in fine hats, as well as pensioners on kids’ scooters. A fresh mountain breeze wafts through its streets and a majestic lake laps at its feet. You can bump into Tina Turner – a long time resident – at the bakery at breakfast. The hillsides beyond the city are scattered with clusters of wild primrose, while bear garlic grows near streams in backyards and near the church. Life is peaceful and orderly here, ruffled only by the occasional flock of seagulls. Yet Zurich is anything but dull!
You can sample veal sausages with mustard that brought tears to my eyes, leavened pretzels filled with tuna paste, the famous Luxemburgerli (Swiss macarons), and – of course – fondue, raclette, dried pear strudel, or Bircher muesli. Zurich boasts the first restaurant in the world that serves food in complete darkness (Blinde Kuh), as well as the world’s first vegetarian restaurant Hiltl, which will blow your mind and conquer your taste buds. There’s also a market in the park where, just like me, you might discover something new. The things that look like giant caterpillars are actually knotroots (Stachys affinis). Crunchy, they taste like something between kohlrabi and sunroot. Outside of Asia, they’re grown in France, Belgium, and here in Switzerland.
You can find my culinary report from Zurich as well as tips on where and what to eat in my book How I Ate (My Way Through) The World.