They certainly know their food here. As they should, since Zdeněk Pohlreich is the chef. They’re best known for their French onion soup, beef cheeks in red wine sauce, or lamb knee with marjoram served on a bed of spinach. And that’s what I’ve tried here. The meat was delightfully juicy. When you’re not in a hurry, you can admire the art-deco interior with its tall columns covered in late secessionist mosaics. The café has been around for more than 100 years and was a sough-after location by many artists and writers.

The dessert display was a letdown at first. A selection of international evergreens. But then I saw it. A Bundt cake under a glass dome. That is, it only looked like a Bundt cake, it totally fooled me. It’s called Savarin (and dates back to a Parisian café in 1844), it has a drier texture and is covered in a translucent sugar glaze. At Café Imperial, they serve it drizzled with Armagnac and a generous dollop of whipped cream with mascarpone and vanilla. The whole is not sickeningly sweet, beautifully moist, and pretty darn good.

Café Imperial, Na Poříčí 15, Prague

Café Imperial, Na Poříčí 15, Praha