The autumn was beautiful that year. Even warm enough to for a dip in the Nesider Lake. I came here primarily for the food, but I enjoyed the scenery just as much. Prairie buffalos, white donkeys, and swarms of persistent starlings, biking tours around salt lakes, the best tomato grower, excellent wines (I’ve never seen so many female viticulturists anywhere) and fish, incredibly tasty meat, cherry pastries, fields of saffron and stork nests atop chimneys. It’s all here! No wonder that part of this region is a registered UNESCO heritage site.