I found myself in the Prenzlauer Berg neighbourhood. It’s not the heart of Berlin, but it’s wonderful. The tree-lined alleys are sprinkled with the tables of quaint bistros and cafes, very much like the up-and-coming Karlín quarter in Prague. (Whose café owners, I suspect, took a few tips from Berlin, to nobody’s disadvantage.) You can opt for the excellent Bonanza Coffee Roasters, the No Fire No Glory café, the unbeatable Vietnamese restaurant Si An, or the Engelberg bistro. Occasionally, a farmers’ market takes place on Kollowitzplatz. It’s a stone’s throw to the legendary currywurst joint Konopke or to the Mauerpark, with its epic Sunday flea markets.