I walk in, and I feel like a time traveller. The two types sitting inside look like they’re part of the decor, the guy manning the spigot occasionally throws a few logs into the vintage stove, which is the altar of this high-ceilinged space flooded in afternoon sunlight. First Republic interior decoration, cutlery, and even the music. A broth is bubbling on the stove, and when you order toast, they’ll place it on there to make it for you. I tried the oxtail consommé and red beer from the Konrád brewery with a pretzel. Fully satisfied, except for the pretzel. I’m not a huge fan of the hard and overly salted ones. If you like Lokál, this place is even more authentic and, what’s more, quite unique. Don’t expect anything fancy, even the bathrooms are a trip back in time, but the atmosphere is worth it!

On my second visit, it was chillier outside, and the staff invited us to put a chair near the stove to warm up. It wasn’t a problem for them to combine the sauce from one dish with the meat from another one for my companion. This time, the coq au vin didn’t sit well with me. To be more specific, it was bland. I didn’t leave with my taste-buds fully satiated, and I needed something more. I guess I’ll have to return for the third time, to find out how it really is with the food here.

Hostenec U tunelu, Thámova 1, Prague